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After spending time with family at White Barn Farm in Brookline, Vermont, Kona and I began our summer journey toward the final four national parks on our list. The road ahead would eventually lead us to Indiana Dunes, Cuyahoga Valley, Isle Royale, and one final park still waiting to be checked off. Before heading west, we decided to spend time exploring one of the Northeast’s most beautiful regions: New York’s Adirondack Mountains.
As with many RV adventures, the journey itself often becomes just as memorable as the destination.
Our first stop was Fort Ticonderoga. I entered the destination into Google Maps and followed the route without much thought. The drive through Vermont was scenic, passing through small towns, farms, and rolling countryside before eventually bringing us to Route 74 near Lake Champlain. What I didn’t realize was that the route ended at the Ticonderoga Ferry.
Instead of crossing into New York by bridge, we rolled our Leisure Travel Vans Unity FX directly onto a small ferry along with a handful of cars and motorcycles. Fifteen minutes later, we were crossing Lake Champlain for just $18.
Sometimes technology makes the decisions for you, and this time, Google Maps made the right one. The ferry dropped us directly at the entrance to Fort Ticonderoga.
Before visiting the fort itself, we stopped at the King’s Garden. Kona was welcome throughout most of the grounds except for the enclosed garden area. We strolled among historic buildings, greenhouses, and flower beds that were just beginning to come to life for the season. Many of the plants had not yet reached their peak bloom, but it was easy to imagine how beautiful the gardens would become later in the summer.
From there, we headed to the fort just in time for the daily cannon demonstration. Three costumed interpreters carefully loaded the cannon while another explained the fort’s history and strategic importance during the French and Indian War and the American Revolution. The presentation was entertaining, educational, and surprisingly engaging. When the cannon finally fired, the blast echoed across the grounds and reminded everyone why this fort once controlled one of the most important transportation routes in North America.
The fort itself is impressive. Massive stone walls, numerous cannon positions, and commanding views of Lake Champlain make it easy to understand why armies fought repeatedly for control of this location. The museum exhibits are equally well done. Interactive displays, historical artifacts, and detailed interpretations help bring the fort’s history to life. Together, the exhibits and fort grounds make Fort Ticonderoga much more than a quick photo stop.
Admission also included access to nearby Mount Defiance, which overlooks the fort from high above.
Finding the road proved more difficult than expected. Poor signage sent us into downtown Ticonderoga. The historic village features a waterfall, a covered bridge, local shops, and several restaurants. While searching for the road to Mount Defiance, we discovered Mossy Point Boat Launch at the northern end of Lake George. Kona enjoyed a swim while I relaxed along the shoreline and took in the views. The unexpected stop became one of the highlights of the afternoon.
Eventually, we located the road to Mount Defiance. The climb is steep and narrow but manageable in smaller RVs and passenger vehicles. At the summit, panoramic views stretch across Lake Champlain, the surrounding valley, and Vermont’s Green Mountains. The overlook provides one of the best views of Fort Ticonderoga and is well worth the short drive.
That evening, we settled into Putnam Pond Campground, a primitive New York State campground tucked deep within the Adirondacks. The campground offers spacious wooded sites separated by thick forest. In many areas, you can barely see neighboring campsites. Water spigots and bathhouses provide basic services, but otherwise, campers are surrounded by nature.
Knowing we planned to spend several days boondocking, I emptied the tanks at the campground dump station before leaving. It seemed like a good idea at the time. What I forgot to do was download my route while I still had internet access. As soon as I left the campground and disconnected Starlink, I lost navigation. Fortunately, I guessed correctly and eventually found enough signal to confirm I was heading in the right direction. It was a good reminder that when traveling in remote areas, downloaded maps can be just as important as fuel.
That first evening at Putnam Pond highlighted one of the realities of modern RV travel. I had just purchased Starlink, and this was my first trip using it. Like any new piece of technology, there was a learning curve. Starlink has quickly become an essential tool for many full-time RV travelers. It allows us to work, communicate, and research destinations from places that would otherwise have no connectivity—the challenge is that it needs a clear view of the sky.
Our original campsite sat beneath a dense canopy of trees. After struggling to find a signal, I moved to a nearby site with a better opening overhead. Then things got interesting. While installing Starlink using a new suction-cup mount attached to the skylight, one side suddenly released. The dish fell, hit my elbow, and crashed onto the ground. For a moment, I thought I had destroyed my brand-new internet system before I had really begun using it. Fortunately, Starlink survived the fall. The final challenge involved remembering the Wi-Fi password. With no cell service and no internet connection, resetting a password was not an option. After nearly an hour of frustration, I discovered the correct password had been saved on my Xbox while outdated versions were stored on both my phone and laptop. Remote camping has a way of turning small technology problems into major adventures.
The next morning, Kona and I were up early exploring Putnam Pond. We met a friendly couple preparing to carry lightweight canoes more than a mile into a remote lake. One canoe weighed just 11 pounds. The other weighed 18. I admired their ambition.
The Adirondacks felt wonderfully wild. Thick forests surrounded the campground. Loons called from distant lakes. Black flies and mosquitoes reminded us that wilderness always comes with a few tradeoffs. The insects were among the worst we had encountered during our travels, including on previous trips through western Canada and Alaska. Still, the region’s beauty more than compensated for the bugs.
One of my goals for this portion of the trip was to explore primitive campsites throughout Adirondack Park. Using New York State Department of Environmental Conservation maps, I researched remote campsites near trout streams and fishing opportunities. After identifying several possibilities, I created backup plans for each location. Experience has taught me that flexibility is one of the most important skills for successful boondocking.
Our next destination was the Moose River Plains and Perkins Clearing areas. Together, they offer hundreds of roadside primitive campsites spread throughout the forest. The drive followed Route 28, designated as the Adirondack Trail Scenic Byway. The route passes countless lakes, rivers, forests, and mountain vistas. Motorcyclists, photographers, fishermen, and RV travelers all seemed to be enjoying the same beautiful stretch of road. Along the way, I made a stop that deserves special mention.
Near Exit 26 on Interstate 87 sits one of the most memorable ice cream shops I’ve encountered during our travels. Stone Bridge Ice Cream is located near the Natural Stone Bridge and Caves attraction. The family-owned business offers more than 90 homemade soft-serve flavors, along with numerous hard-ice-cream options. I chose blueberry crumble, featuring blueberry soft serve hand-mixed with crumb topping and served in a waffle cone—it was outstanding.
The nearby Natural Stone Bridge and Caves attraction is equally impressive. The property contains the largest marble cave entrance in the eastern United States. Hiking trails wind through the property, leading visitors past waterfalls, rock formations, and cave entrances. Together, the ice cream stand and cave attraction make an excellent stop for anyone exploring the Adirondacks.
Eventually, we reached the Perkins Clearing Conservation Easement Lands.
Over the next several hours, I explored numerous primitive campsites connected by dirt roads before selecting a large clearing near wetlands and a small stream. The site offered everything I was looking for: privacy, fishing opportunities, a peaceful setting, and a clear view of the sky for Starlink.
The roads were rough in places but manageable. The reward was complete solitude. That evening, frogs filled the wetlands with a constant chorus while Kona relaxed outside the RV. After days of driving and sightseeing, it felt good to simply sit still.
The following morning, we explored nearby streams and tried our luck fishing. Unfortunately, the fish were not interested. The weather also began to shift. Temperatures remained stuck in the upper 50s during the day and dipped into the 40s at night. Wind and rain dominated the forecast. Rather than spend several wet days in a primitive campsite, I decided to relocate to Lewey Lake Campground and wait out the weather.
Lewey Lake Campground sits along a chain of interconnected waterways that includes Lewey Lake, Indian Lake, and the river connecting them. The campground is spread across several separate loops. Each offers a different experience.
Before booking, I toured the campground to identify sites with one increasingly important feature: an unobstructed view of the sky—Starlink has become part of my campsite selection process. The waterfront sites that caught my attention were already reserved. After exploring the campground, I found an available site with enough open sky for Starlink and completed my reservation online.
One important note for travelers visiting New York State campgrounds with pets is that rabies documentation is required at check-in. I keep photos of Kona’s vaccination records and rabies certificate stored on my phone for easy access. That simple habit has saved me time countless times during our travels.
After checking in, I asked the campground staff if Kona could take a swim at the beach. The weather was cool, and the beach was empty. They said yes. Watching Kona race into the water reminded me of why we travel this way. The destinations are memorable, but sharing them with her makes the journey even better.
As we settled into camp, we began planning the next leg of our adventure.
The Adirondacks had already delivered unexpected ferry rides, historic forts, remote campsites, scenic highways, memorable ice cream stops, and plenty of time in nature. We had only scratched the surface of what the region has to offer. Ahead of us waited three national parks and thousands more miles of road.
But for now, we were exactly where we wanted to be. We were parked beside a quiet Adirondack lake, listening to the wind move through the trees while planning the next adventure.
This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://leisurevans.com/blog/adirondacks-adventures-part-1-forts-ferries-and-forest-campsites/